Struggling to Bloom? 9 Proven Strategies to Help Your Orchid Spike Again
Struggling to Bloom if you’ve been eagerly waiting for your orchid to bloom but aren’t seeing any spikes, you’re not alone. Orchids are admired for their delicate beauty and exotic blooms, but getting them to flower consistently can be a challenge. Many orchid growers, especially beginners, face the common frustration of a plant that looks healthy yet refuses to bloom. Orchids require a delicate balance of care, and if their environment isn’t right, they may stop producing spikes entirely.
Don’t worry—there’s hope! There are several proven strategies you can follow to get your orchid to spike and bloom again. In this guide, we will dive deep into nine effective methods that can help coax your orchid into flowering once more. Whether you’re dealing with a stubborn Phalaenopsis or a finicky Dendrobium, these tips will increase your chances of seeing those beautiful flowers again.
Struggling to Bloom follow this 9 steps
1. Ensure adequate light levels.
One of the most crucial factors in orchid blooming is light. Orchids, particularly Phalaenopsis and other popular species, need bright, indirect light to spike. A lack of light is one of the most common reasons why orchids don’t bloom. However, too much direct sunlight can burn their sensitive leaves, so finding the right balance is essential.
Solution: Place your orchid near an east or south-facing window where it can get bright but indirect sunlight for at least 6-8 hours a day. If natural light is limited, especially during winter months, consider supplementing with full-spectrum grow lights designed for indoor plants. Orchids thrive when their light levels mimic their natural habitat, which often involves dappled sunlight filtered through a rainforest canopy.
Tip: An easy way to check if your orchid is getting enough light is by looking at the leaves. If they are a deep green, your plant might not be getting enough light. Orchid leaves should be a bright, medium green—this indicates they are receiving just the right amount of sunlight.
2. Stimulate spiking with temperature changes
Particularly when it comes to spiking, orchids are susceptible to temperature fluctuations. In the wild, they blossom when nighttime lows are lowered and days get warmer. The orchid knows it’s time to blossom and procreate because of this temperature difference.You may not be providing your orchid with the necessary temperature variations if it isn’t blooming.
Solution: Try to mimic this natural process by providing your orchid with a nighttime temperature drop of about 10-15°F (5-8°C) compared to daytime temperatures. For example, if your home is 75°F during the day, aim for 60-65°F at night. You can move your orchid to a cooler room at night or place it near a draughty window during the cooler months. Be careful, though—make sure temperatures don’t dip below 55°F, as this could stress the plant.
Tip: Some orchid species, like Cymbidium, require a more significant temperature drop, especially in autumn, to trigger blooming. Knowing your orchid’s specific variety and temperature preferences can help you create the ideal environment.
3. Water Wisely—Don’t Overdo It
Orchids are sensitive to overwatering, which is a common mistake many orchid owners make. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which in turn hinders the plant’s ability to absorb nutrients and bloom. On the other hand, underwatering can cause dehydration and stress the orchid, preventing it from producing flowers.
Solution: Water your orchid when the potting medium is dry, about an inch or two below the surface. Use your finger to check moisture levels, or invest in a moisture meter. When you do water, make sure to thoroughly drench the potting medium until water flows out of the drainage holes. Let the water drain completely, as orchids do not like to sit in water. Avoid leaving any water in the saucer beneath the plant to prevent root rot.
Tip: The type of potting medium you’re using can also affect how often you should water. Orchids grown in bark mix will dry out faster than those in sphagnum moss, so adjust your watering schedule accordingly.
4. Feed your orchid with proper fertilisation.
Nutrient deficiency can be another reason your orchid isn’t blooming. Like most plants, orchids need essential nutrients to grow and produce flowers. A lack of phosphorous, in particular, can inhibit blooming. Fertilising your orchid regularly will encourage healthy growth and improve its chances of producing spikes.
Solution: To encourage flowering, use an orchid fertiliser with a greater phosphorus ratio or one that is balanced (20-20-20). When the orchid is in its resting phase in the fall and winter, cut back on feeding. Fertilise once a month throughout the growing season (spring and summer). To prevent root burn, dilute fertiliser to half its original strength.
Tip: Orchids thrive on a “weakly, weekly” feeding schedule—this means giving them a diluted fertiliser solution every week rather than a full-strength feeding once a month. This method mimics their natural environment, where they receive small amounts of nutrients through rain and decaying organic matter.
5. Boost humidity levels
Because orchids are tropical plants, maintaining the proper humidity level is essential to their happiness. Orchids that are dehydrated due to low humidity levels may exhibit poor development and a lack of spikes. When heating systems dry up the air in indoor spaces during the winter, this is particularly prevalent.
Solution: To replicate the orchid’s natural habitat, aim for humidity levels between 50 and 70%. If your house is dry, especially in the winter, you can provide humidity by spraying your plant, setting up a humidity tray underneath it with water and stones, or running a humidifier close by. Another way to produce a micro-humid climate is to group plants together.
Tip: Avoid misting the leaves too frequently, as excess moisture on the foliage can lead to fungal infections. Instead, focus on raising the overall humidity around the plant.
6. Repot When Necessary
Orchids don’t like to be repotted often, but over time, their potting medium can break down and suffocate the roots. When the medium becomes compacted, it holds onto moisture longer than it should, leading to root rot. Additionally, compacted medium doesn’t allow enough airflow, which is crucial for orchid roots.
Solution: Every one to two years, repot your orchid, ideally after it has done flowering. Always use a pot with drainage holes to keep water from sitting at the bottom; use fresh orchid bark or sphagnum moss to provide proper drainage and airflow.
Tip: When an orchid’s roots begin to protrude from the container or the potting medium appears to be decomposing or becoming damp, it is usually time to repotte the plant. Orchids prefer to be fairly root-bound, so choose a container that’s a little larger than the one you have now.
7. Increase Airflow
Orchids grow naturally on trees with lots of wind around their foliage and roots. Your orchid may not bloom if there is little airflow, which can create stagnant conditions that encourage the growth of mould, mildew, and other fungi.
Solution: Ensure your orchid is placed in a well-ventilated area. Use a small fan to provide gentle airflow, especially if your home is humid. Make sure the air isn’t blowing directly on the plant but circulating the room to keep conditions fresh.
Tip: Orchids with aerial roots benefit greatly from good airflow. Keep an eye on these roots; if they start looking mushy or mouldy, you might need to increase the ventilation.
8. Mimic natural seasonal changes
Orchids have a natural blooming cycle, which is triggered by seasonal changes in temperature, light, and watering. By mimicking these seasonal changes in your home, you can trick your orchid into thinking it’s time to bloom.
Solution: Reduce watering and fertiliser during the fall and winter months, when most orchids go dormant. Gradually increase these care practices in the spring and summer when the orchid’s natural growth cycle picks up. Similarly, reduce the temperature slightly and cut back on light exposure during the winter to mimic shorter days.
Tip: Different orchid species have different blooming seasons, so research your specific type to understand its natural blooming cycle.
9. Be patient and consistent.
Orchids can be slow growers, and sometimes the best thing you can do is to be patient. Even with all the right care, some orchids may take months to respond and begin producing spikes. Don’t rush the process, and avoid over-adjusting your care regimen too quickly, as this can stress the plant.
Solution: Stick to a consistent routine of light, watering, fertilisation, and temperature adjustments. Over time, a healthy orchid will naturally produce spikes and bloom again.
Tip: If your orchid is otherwise healthy with green leaves and good root growth, it’s a sign that it just needs more time to bloom. Patience is key!
Final Thoughts
Getting an orchid to spike and bloom again can be challenging, but it’s certainly achievable with the right care. By adjusting the light, temperature, watering habits, and feeding schedule, you can create the ideal environment for your orchid to thrive. With patience and persistence, you’ll soon be rewarded with the sight of those beautiful, long-lasting blooms once again. Happy growing!
FAQS
What are the signs that a new stem is emerging from my orchid?
The signs include:Small, greenish or reddish spikes emerging from the base of the plant near the leaves. These spikes are thicker and rounder than roots. Increased leaf growth, which may indicate the orchid is in a growth phase that could lead to a new stem or spike. Healthy roots that turn green when watered, showing the orchid is in good health and may rebloom
How do I cut an orchid stem so that it grows back?
Follow these steps:Identify the node: After the blooms fall off, cut the stem about an inch above a node (a small bump on the stem). Choose the second or third node from the base to encourage new spike growth. Sterilize your tools: Always use sterilized scissors or pruning shears to prevent infection. Monitor the orchid: Ensure it's in indirect sunlight and water appropriately. Proper care will help the orchid initiate new stem growth.
Note: If the stem has turned brown or dry, it’s best to cut it off completely, as it is unlikely to rebloom from that stem.
How can I tell the difference between new roots and a new flower spike on my orchid?
New roots and flower spikes can look similar at first, but here’s how to tell the difference:New roots are typically round, firm, and covered with a protective coating called velamen. They are green at the tips when healthy. New flower spikes tend to be thicker than roots and are more flattened. They often have a mitten-shaped tip and may have a slight reddish or purplish hue as they develop.
When is the best time to cut the stem after my orchid has finished blooming?
The best time to cut the stem is after the flowers have all fallen off. This is usually when the stem starts turning yellow or brown, signaling that it’s done blooming. At this point, cut the stem about an inch above a node to encourage potential reblooming. If the stem turns completely brown, cut it all the way back to the base.