Guide: on how to care and grow Bush lily

Bush lily is a beautiful plant there are six recognised species, all of which are native to Southern Africa. In the late 1810s, British explorers John Bowie and William Burchell brought live specimens to England. The Clivia genus, named in honour of the Duchess of Northumberland, Charlotte Percy (née Clive), included the C. nobilis as its first species. Due to its resemblance in leaf and flower structure to the real Amaryllis, this genus is considered to be its relative. The name of the most common species of Clivia, C. miniata, translates from Latin as “Cinnabar-red,” alluding to the flower’s dark red colour.

light and postion for planting.

For this plant, a position with a hint of morning or evening sun is excellent because too-dark environments increase the risk of root rot. If you’re concerned that the area is too dark to read a newspaper in, you can read it with your back to the light source. Although a Clivia can benefit greatly from sunlight, avoid scorching the leaves with excessively strong rays. Common symptoms include murky yellow foliage and brown spots appearing on the top of the leaf.

A room with a north, east, or west-facing window or a conservatory with partial shade are suitable locations for best development.

Water

Between irrigations, let the top half of the soil dry out. It’s time for another hydration when the pot seems lighter when lifted compared to when it was last hydrated. Since Clivias naturally grow in stable forests throughout southern Africa that can withstand brief droughts, it is always preferable to under-water them as opposed to overwatering them. Reducing the amount of water during the plant’s dormant season in the fall and winter can increase the likelihood of a spring bloom. Never spray the roots with cold water since some plants have a tendency to drop their leaves when they are in bloom.

instances. Curled or crunchy leaves, wilted foliage, yellowing leaves, and stunted growth are all signs of under-watering. These problems are frequently brought on by excessive heat, sunlight, or simple carelessness. Lower leaves that are yellowing or browning, stunted growth, wilting, and a rotten core are all signs of overwatering. Water logging is a widespread and major problem for growers, just like moth orchids. Because compost drains well, any extra moisture will permeate the potting soil and collect in the bottom, where it will eventually lead to root rot. Overwatering is frequently brought on by insufficient heat, light, or soil aeration in between irrigations. If this has happened to your family, read more under “Common Issues” below.

humidty

The humidity in a typical room is more than enough to keep a Clivia alive, as excessive humidity and poor air circulation can cause grey mould to grow in the base’s cubbyholes. Never mist flowers to enhance humidity because this will cause botrytis petal blig.

fertiliser

Use a potassium-rich fertiliser to extend the blooming period of the plant’s blooms; a great example of this would be a “Tomato” feed. Regular fertilisers like BabyBio or Miracle-Gro, for example, will still work but will favour foliar growth in addition to flower growth. To promote foliar and root growth the remainder of the year, a normal fertiliser can be added on a monthly basis.

pot bound roots

To increase the likelihood of future bloom, the Clivia’s roots must be connected to the container, just like the Moth Orchid or Anthurium. They must feel constrained in their ability to reproduce and pass on their DNA by sending out a flower stalk. Of course, there are other elements that might aid this process, such as temperature and daylight hours, but it is always a good idea to start with the roots. Due to the soil to root ratio, which heavily favors the latter, keeping the plant pot confined reduces the risk of overwatering the specimen.

Temperature

Since the temperatures are often fairly stable throughout the year, many indoor plants cannot maintain a healthy dormancy over the winter. A Clivia will empathise with its inaction during this period if it is placed in a cooler environment, directing its energy instead toward later flowering. Keep the plant in the cooler environment once spring arrives until the base begins to develop blossom buds. ‘Tomato’ food is the ideal fertiliser to add to the plant once this development is under way if you want to extend the life of the blossom. As soon as the blooms have faded, switch to a monthly “Houseplant” fertiliser.

The main difficulty with Clivia is overwatering. Although wet soil is essential for long-lasting blooms, it should not be kept that way for long periods of time to reduce the risk of rot. To avoid upsetting the delicate root systems, let the top third of the soil dry out between irrigations and only use tepid water. Yellowed leaves, slowed development, and a rotting base are typical symptoms of overwatering. This will mark the base’s demise if it has entirely softened over. If you want to save the plant, take it out of the pot and check the condition of its roots. Discard any unhealthy roots.

removing the majority of the muddy soil with a clean pair of scissors. Repot it into a smaller pot, just big enough to fit the stem, if there aren’t many roots left. If there are no roots on the ‘bulb,’ keep it in a fresh batch of compost and water it seldom; in a few months, it will re-root itself.

Sunscorch is caused by receiving too much sunshine, and its symptoms include brown areas, a murky yellow look, crispy or curled leaves, dry leaf edges, and slow growth. While excessive watering is a problem with low light, dehydration is a problem with much sunlight. A Clivia would thrive best in a setting with little to no direct light because they are resistant to extensive sun exposure in their native South Africa.

The leaves will wilt and have a pale centre without a softened base when there is insufficient light. If this has happened to your specimen, gradually increase the light while bearing in mind the increased risk of environmental shock (occurring when two places provide too disparate developing circumstances) and sunburn.

Lack of flowers can be caused by a variety of factors, such as poorly managed dormancy, excessive watering, excessive heat during the months when flowers are not in bloom, and over-potted plants. Your Clivia’s spring blooming potential will be determined by the quality of its winter dormancy. A bloom will be prevented in places where the temperature is constant year-round since the plant might not be able to discern the season. Another reason for the plant’s lack of blooms could be the amount of water it receives annually; again, to thoroughly winterize the plant, allow the majority of the soil to dry out in between irrigations during the autumn and winter. In general, restricted plants will flower more frequently and better.

A dearth of blossoms results from a wintertime hibernation phase that wasn’t long enough. The plant won’t be able to lay dormant in locations with nearly constant temperatures, which will lead to subpar spring growth. To accomplish, locate in an area with less waters that drops to about 10°C (51°F). While the radiators are running, let the majority of the compost dry up and give a humidity tray.